Ranji Smile: The forgotten chef who opened America’s first Indian restaurant

In London, he had been a curry cook at the Cecil and Savoy hotels. Here, according to an 1899 profile in Harper’s, he was noticed by Sherry’s owner, Louis Sherry, who invited him to bring his culinary skills across the Atlantic. Late Victorian London already boasted an Indian dining scene: as early as 1810, Sake Dean Mohamed, a native of Patna, had opened his Hindostanee Coffee House near Portman Square, plying customers with both curry and hookah.

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